Friday, December 5, 2014



Montejima Aged Tequila NOM 1137 (40% Abv.)

Currently Montejima Tequila is being produced at La Cofradia NOM 1137 in Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico. I won't go into great detail on the process at this distillery since I have already covered this distillery in a past blog post. But I will point out the small differences that sets this brand apart from the others produced at La Cofradia. Founded in 2010, this maquila is a 100% agave tequila. The brand decided to used the term "Aged" instead of Reposado to describe its tequila - perfectly allowable due to recent revisions in the Consejo Regulador del Tequila's Norma. 

The mature blue agave is sourced from somewhere within the lowlands region of Mexico's Jalisco state - no clue if the agave is sourced from La Cofradia's estate fields. The halved agaves are cooked in traditional stone-walled hornos. The cooked agave is put through a wood chipper and extractor-like press device. The mosto is placed in large stainless vats to allow natural open-air fermentation (not sure if Montejima adds yeast(s)). After the fermentation process the juice is double distilled with La Cofradia's Alembic stainless steel pot stills - some brands are triple distilled at this distillery. After distillations the tequila meant for the Blanco is filtered and diluted to the desired alcohol gradation - in this case 40% Abv. (80 Proof). Tequila destined to become an aged product is placed in white oak barrels for two to six months. The length of aging is unclear. As is if the barrels are new or used and what type of char is done inside the barrels. It's unknown at what alcohol gradation the tequila enters the barrels but would guess anywhere between 46 to 50% Abv.. Then prior to bottling the aged tequila would then be filtered and diluted to 40% Abv..

Appearance: Dark blonde - with gold hues. Medium length - slow legs that coat the sides of my Riedel glass. Aroma: fresh baked agave, caramelized sweet honey candy?, citrus (Meyer lemon?), spice and herbs (jalapeno and peppermint?). Flavour: cooked agave, subtle wood, vanilla, caramelized honey (mild sweetness), spice, and hint of citrus. Semi-oily upon entry, mild numbness on the gums and roof, flavours nicely coat the mouth and then a spice (mild jalapeno?) and a dash of peppermint noticed in the back palate. Nothing too overpowering. A nice harmonious balance. Finish: Medium finish with an enjoyable mild sweetness, spice, peppermint and cooked agave that lingers for minutes. A great sipping tequila. RECOMMENDED 



Friday, November 28, 2014


AquaRiva Reposado Tequila NOM 1499 (40% Abv.)

AquaRiva is the brainchild of Cleo Rocos, the officially recognized 'Tequila Queen of the U.K.', collaborating with Stuart Freeman - both whom co-founded the The Tequila Society of United Kingdom. Note: Unlike most celebrity endorsed/owned tequila marcas - Ms.Cleo Rocos is in fact listed on the CRT's NOM list as the title owner of this tequila. 

This 100% agave tequila is produced at NOM 1499, otherwise know as Distillery Casa Tequilera de Arandas, in the Arandas region of Jalisco. Currently there are 40+ contract tequila brands (marcas) and 10+ distillery owned brands being produced at this distillery - 100% agave and mixto.  AquaRiva sources 8+ year old blue agave from the Highlands region of Jalisco - known for its red, mineral-rich volcanic soil. The agave pina halves are cooked in large stainless-steel autoclaves for 8-14+ hours. The cooked agave is shredded with a mechanical shredder then the agave juice is extracted with a conventional roller-mill system - water sourced from the Highlands being used in conjunction with this process. The extracted juices are captured in tanks and transported by pipelines to large stainless tanks for open air fermentation. Proprietary yeast(s) and sourced water is added and the mosto is allowed to ferment for days till it reaches the desired alcoholic gradation (between five and seven percent). It takes a few hours to be transported through pipelines to the distillation stills. The fermented juice is distilled two times with one of the distillery's copper pot stills. The first distillation (la primera) takes the mosto to about 20-25 percent alcohol - this is the "tequila ordinario" - removing undesirable products. The second distillation (la segunda) takes the alcohol gradation of 20-25 percent to anywhere from 40-55 percent - no idea if tequila at Casa Tequilera de Arandas is distilled to proof (only a handful of distilleries do this ie. La Altena) but suspect it's distilled at a higher proof then filtered and diluted with sourced water. AquaRiva Reposado tequila is the result of being rested anywhere between 3 and 6 months in used American Oak Single Cask whiskey barrels - no idea which brand of bourbon or whiskey.

Appearance: Light golden colour with medium - skinny legs in my Riedel glass. Aroma: cooked ripe agave, corn?, marzipan?, smokey/peppery, and subtle hint of alcohol. Flavour: loads of cooked agave, caramel, hints of wood, mild spice (black pepper?) and cinnamon, honeyed smoked almond candy?(guessing where the marzipan came from), hints of citrus and pineapple?, and slightly herbal. Semi-oily and mild tingling on the palate. Finish: medium duration, cooked agave, and a mild lingering spice. Not overtly complex yet I found this reposado nicely balanced with an interesting flavour profile that'll keep a person guessing. Look forward to trying this tequila in some cocktails a la Margaritas. RECOMMENDED 



Friday, November 14, 2014


Gracias a Dios Mezcal Espadin Joven 45% Abv.

This mezcal is produced in the Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca region of Mexico - a.k.a. the "World Capital of Mezcal" - by master mezcalero, Oscar Hernández Santiago. The factory or palenque plants thousands of agave seeds which will eventually germinate and grow 8 to 10 years before they can be harvested to produce mezcal. The palenque produces roughly 3500 litres of mezcal per month. This mezcal is made from organically certified 8 year old  Espadin maguey. Gracias a Dios is one of the few mezcal brands which is Fair Trade and organically certified. Typical of most mezcales, the mature maguey is cut in halves and slowly roasted for days in a covered underground. rock-lined, wood-fired pit. Then the cooked agave is crushed with wooden mallets and a large stone tahona pulled by a donkey. The resulting crushed agave pulp and juice is placed in open oak vats where it is left to ferment for 3-15 days (depending on the conditions). The fermented juice is then distilled two times to desired proof with one of the palenque's small copper pot stills. This mezcal is definitely a handmade and a traditional product.

Appearance: crystal clear, medium slow legs that cling to my Riedel glass. Aroma: roasted agave, spice, herbal, pear, and scorched earthiness. Flavour: roasted agave, that smoked earthiness, semi-sweet honey, spicy arbol chile pepper?, pear again?, oily and lots of minerality; a full attack on the palate with that slight numbing sensation. Nice indeed. Finish: medium duration, peaty (scorched earthiness), hot pepper fade. This mezcal is nicely balanced with intense flavours that keeps one guessing. It is very pleasing mezcal. 

I really dig the label design on the bottle. Guessing the name, Gracias a Dios, is taken from the Zapotec saying, "Quish Dios" - meaning "Thanks to God". Seek out a bottle to add to your collection. You won't be disappointed. RECOMMENDED 

Friday, October 31, 2014

Hacienda Vieja Blanco Tequila NOM 1412 (38% Abv.)


I make no secret that I am a huge fan of the juice coming out of Destiladora de Los Altos. This distillery isn't producing stuff to appease the frat party or the nightclub demographic. One of my favorite bargain tequilas is their Reposado and let's be honest it's a steal. If you ever see Hacienda Vieja Reposado Tequila on the shelf and you're going to a party - grab a bottle or two - no one will be disappointed. Hence, why I raved about it in one of my past posts. 

Appearance: Crystal clear - forming medium uniform legs in my Riedel glass. Aroma: Lots of cooked agave, earthiness, some honey-like sweetness, white pepper, mint?, pineapple citrus and alcohol. Flavour: Cooked agave, earthy, a lot of spiciness and mild sweetness, dry citrus tart snap, licorice-like note (anise?), and subtle hint of fresh green herbs. Semi-oily on entry, with the spicy agave notes intensifying from the front to the back of the palate - slight numbing sensation around gums and roof of mouth. Finish: Medium-light finish, spiciness and agave with a slight alcohol burn. Not at all surprising this is the base of the aged products coming from Destiladora de Los Altos. A good value and fun sipping tequila that would definitely be interesting in a cocktail. Still wonder why people continue to reach for an industrial or mixto tequila instead of a 100% Mexican owned and produced brand like this one. Do yourself a favour and grab a bottle of the Hacienda Vieja Blanco or Reposado.  RECOMMENDED 

Saturday, September 27, 2014


Exploring diffuser (difusor) use in Mexico's Tequila and Mezcal Industry: Traditional or Industrial?

100% accuracy is not guaranteed. This subject has been discussed in articles, blogs and forums but never really taken seriously. The ramifications of the industrialization of tequila and its full impact on the industry and environment. There are a few pieces on diffuser (difusor) use in the production of Tequila and Mezcal: 1). Tequila Aficionado has some posts on the matter (btw you're welcome for the name of the manufacturer) - although they have expressed there's a place in the market for diffuser made tequila & mezcal; 2). MuchoAgave's page is informativeSo it began, an exploration on industrial diffusers (difusores) used in the production of Tequila and Mezcal. The company that manfactures this type of technology and supplies it to companies around the globe is a Spanish company named Tomsa Destil  and partner Goven Investments - Integrated solutions, bio energy, spirits ...Tomsa Destil and Goven Investments provide turn-key contracts as well as engineering, onsite construction/supply, supervision/training, and maintenance. By all accounts this company appears to be the lone manufacturer and supplier of diffuser technology for tequila and mezcal companies (it appears another Spanish company produces this technology). Although, recently we uncovered another, Dedini S/A Indústrias, based in Brazil that builds diffusers for sugar cane. Does this mean diffusers are used in the production of rum and cachaça? Has Dedini S/A Indústrias sold any diffusers to companies in Mexico?

Various records indicate the first Mexican distilleries to install a Tomsa Destil diffuser (difusor) specialized for agave were Casa Cuervo, S.A. de C.V. (2000) - 500 Tn/day, Tequila Cazadores, S.A. de C.V. (2001) - 400 Tn/day, Tequila Herradura, S.A. de C.V. (2001) - 400 Tn/dayTequilera Don Robero, S.A. de C.V. (2001) - 400 Tn/day, Productos Finos de Agave (2001) - 200 Tn/day, Destiladora de Xamay, S.A. de C.V. (2002) -200 Tn/day, Tequila Sauza, S.A. de C.V. (2003) - 400 Tn/day. **NOTE** just to clarify the Tn/day is the manufacturer's notation for how much metric tonne of agave can be processed per day

The Tomsa Destil diffuser system specialized for agave production is built and capable of acid catalyzed hydrolysis. This means it's supposed to efficiently extract a higher percentage of the sugars from uncooked raw agave. According to a Tomsa Destil representative, acid catalyst hydrolysis must be used for the processing of raw uncooked agave. The process basically consists of the following steps: Loading of whole agaves into a hopper were they pass through a slicer; The cut agave is passed through a de-fibreising machine to open up the fibrous material; The next step consists of passing through a milling machine to chop the material into small pieces. The shredded material is fed to the diffuser where the sugar is extracted via high temperature-pressure and intense steam. The juice from the diffuser is sent to a holding tank and eventually fed to one of two batch cookers (autoclaves). The autoclaves are reactors in which Sulphuric acid is added and the mixture is heated to a certain temperature, held for a certain time and then cooled. This hydrolyses the sugar starches into fermentable sugars ready for fermentation. In some cases there will be 2 reactors working alternately. The solid bagasse coming from the diffuser will pass through a set of two roller mills to squeeze out all the remaining water. The method of pre-cooking the agave (horno or autoclave) before being processed by a Tomsa Destil diffuser does not require acid catalyst hydrolysis. This slow cooking hydrolyses the sugars without the need to add acid. The diffuser will replace some of the roller mills for juice extraction, i.e. instead of squeezing the juice out the diffuser will be washing it out. The manufacturer of the diffuser recommends the first option (Sulphuric acid) as the efficiency will be much greater (<1% sugar losses) and so the payback period will be much shorter.

Hurst Biomass boiler (l) and Tomsa Destil difusor (r) system at Brown-Forman Casa Herradura (NOM 1119)

Beam Suntory  - Casa Sauza Destileria La Perseverancia (NOM 1102)

Destileria Leyros (NOM 1489)

Tequilera 8 Mesas (NOM 1587)

Destiladora de Xamay (NOM 1534)



Productos Finos de Agave aka. Tequilera Campo Azul (NOM 1416)

Casa Cuervo (NOM 1122)

Bacardi y Compania (NOM 1487)

Tequilera Don Roberto (NOM 1437)

Productos Selectos de Agave - GRUPO PSA (NOM 1566)

Industrializadora Integral del Agave - The iidea Company (NOM 1417) 




Inulina y Miel de Agave, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1605)



Casa Armando Guillermo Prieto dba. AGPCH, S.A. DE C.V.(NOM O50X)





I once recall, a tequila representative describing the process as a "delicate way of making agave tea" and "only hot water and high pressure was used". Ok. Sometime around the late 1990s/early 2000s Tequila Sauza, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1102) bought their diffuser equipment from Tomsa Destil when ownership was under Allied-Pedro Domecq. According to a 2009 Tequila Sauza investor newsletter, this particular distillery started using one for all products beginning in 2003. Currently, Sauza, is owned by Beam Suntory, Inc.. People have described these rather large industrial pieces of equipment as "green" and "environmentally friendly". Yet there is some obvious concerns. What methods are used to collect and recycle the acid, neutralizers and other waste(s)/byproduct(s)? How much energy is consumed by a specific diffuser? What, if any, is a diffuser's impact on the environment? How does the automation of a distillery affect employment? Bare-facts, what is the carbon footprint of an industrialized distillery? That same Tomsa Destil representative provided some figures for the resource and energy needs of their diffuser. If anyone can extrapolate how these numbers compare to a more traditional distillery with a horno and a milling device please do reach out to us.


Basic requirements of the difusor process provided by Tomsa Destil


Tequila Sauza, S. de R.L. de C.V. (Owner: Fortune Brands, Inc) Investor Newsletter



It seems some distilleries openly share this type of information about their production methods. Others like to hide the fact a diffuser even exists on their property. Most brands, for good reason, deny their product is produced in such a way even if the tequila is produced at a distillery that owns such technology. Destileria Leyros, S.A.de C.V. (NOM 1489) comes to mind as they allowed it to be filmed here. As you can see right from the opening, that huge red and silver coloured piece of machinery that resembles a shipping container, is a Tomsa Destil built diffuser bought under the company name, Rosales y Cia, S.A. de C.V. . It seems the Tomsa Destil diffuser is built to work with a specialized autoclave oven(s) that handles liquid, a 'cranked up' fermentation process and in most cases a column still for distillation. In this case it's entirely feasible that a Tequila or Mezcal distillery could produce a blanco in 24-36 hours from a load of harvested agave unlike a traditional distillery that can take anywhere from 7 - 10 days to make their product. Doesn't sound very traditional or "small batch" to me. Hear that Casa Dragones Tequila. Some distilleries cook the agave in their pre-existing autoclaves or hornos before being cut up ("pre-cooking") and placed into the diffuser; while other distilleries feed raw agave into mechanical chippers then into the diffuser - utilizing the specially fabricated autoclave for liquid ("post-cooking").  Which method takes the least amount of time? 



Renowned scholar, Dra. Ana G. Valenzuela Zapata, said it best, translated: "prohibit the use of diffusers (hydrolysis of agave juices), it takes away the 'soul' (the taste of cooked agave) in our spirits, unique in the world its aromatic and flavor complexity." 


Casa Pedro Domencq - Destilería Colonial de Jalisco Pernod Ricard México (NOM 1111) respected master distiller, Jesus Hernandez, admitted in this 2010 article that his distillery tried a diffuser, "We tried using a diffuser but you lose flavours. We abandoned the idea". 

Miguel Cedeño Cruz is one of the most well known technicians in the Tequila Industry and for many years he has been part of the technical committees for the Tequila National Chamber (CNIT) and the Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT). His statement on diffusers, "In some tequilas, a diffuser is used to extract inulin in raw agave without cooking, followed by acid hydrolysis to release fermentable sugars. Using this method creates a more neutral profile and does not yield the desired baked notes, given there is no cooking of the piñas. Additionally, some distilleries also utilize a column still to achieve a more neutral profile and expedite the production process – DeLeón does not employ either of these methods."

Even Tomas Estes, co-founder of Ocho Tequila and Tequila Ambassador to the European Union stated, "But most of the newer 'innovations', like diffusers, seem not to add flavor but to take it away." 

Douglas French, founder and master distiller of Scorpion Mezcal, strongly opposes production with the aid of a diffuser.

Tequila: A Global History, Ian Williams

Give credit to Bobby Heugel's The Pastry War which has decided to take a very public stance on diffusers


By no means releasing this type of information are we attempting to tarnish or defame any particular brand or distillery. Although we tend to choose and support family owned brands and more traditionally made agave spiritsA diffuser is just not traditional. Such technology eliminates valuable jobs and the impact on the environment isn't definitive. Then again is it cheating, if a distillery uses this type of equipment? It's perfectly legal and defined as acceptable in section 4.30 Operaciones unitarias of the Consejo Regulador del Tequila's Norma . It was added to the Norma after the last "Agave Crisis". Coincidentally around this time most of the companies and distilleries purchased diffusers from Tomsa Destil. The rule 6.2 Del agave. El agave que se utilice como materia prima para la elaboración de tequila, debe ser maduro, de la especie Tequilana weber, variedad azul, y haber sido cultivado en la región geografica descrita en la Declaración from Norma Oficial Mexicana NOM-006-SCFI-1994 never found its way into the NOM-006-SCFI-2005 or the NOM-006-SCFI-2012. Essentially such an omission would allow distilleries to use immature agave azul in their production of tequila. So much for sustainable agave practices.

So now it is entirely up to you. Try some blind side X side tastings. What do you prefer, a less traditionally made spirit or a more traditionally made one? You have to keep in mind there are two possible problems: a) Distilleries could be blending in diffuser made tequila with other more traditionally made batches (very cost effective); b) Distillery NOM X4X5 could source diffuser made tequila from distillery NOM 1Y8Y but still keep NOM X4X5 on the label. And perhaps you're asking yourself, "but how does such tequila get its flavours if indeed this diffuser process strips such elements from the agave?" please check out our post on the additives legally allowed. Now, go out and purchase a diffuser made 100% Agave Tequila and Mezcal. While you're there anyways purchase a traditionally made made 100% Agave Tequila and Mezcal. Do a blind side X side with friends. Tweet us your thoughts and results.


These are some of the Tequila and Mezcal distilleries that currently own a diffuser:

Tequila Sauza (NOM 1102); Casa Cuervo (NOM 1122); Destileria Leyros (NOM 1489); Compania Destiladora de Xamay (NOM 1534); Productos Finos de Agave (NOM 1416); Tequilera Don Roberto (NOM 1437); Brown - Forman Tequila Herradura Mexico (NOM 1119); Bacardi y Compania (NOM 1487) and Patrón Spirits Mexico, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1492); Tequilera 8 Mesas (NOM 1587); Productos Selectos de Agave, S.P.R. de R.L. de C.V. (NOM 1566); Industrializadora Integral del Agave, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1417); Tequila Embajador, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1509)Corporativo Destilería Santa Lucia, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1173)Diageo México Operaciones, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1609) & Tequila Don Julio, S.A de C.V. (NOM 1449)Tequilera Corralejo, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1368); Inulina y Miel de Agave, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1605); Compañia Tequilera Hacienda Sahuayo, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1511); Casa Armando Guillermo Prieto (NOM O50X).

**Suspect Distilleries** that share the exact same business address as Productos Finos de Agave: Envasadora De Productos Lideres, S.A. De C.V. (NOM 1592), Casa Tequilera Herencia de Los Altos, S.A. De C.V. (NOM 1596), and Destilería Teremana de Agave (NOM 1613).

**New Distillery** Compania Destiladora de Xamay (NOM 1534) renamed Max World Trading, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1602).


If we have incorrectly written anything here, brands or representatives can reach out to us here.


Tuesday, September 16, 2014



Tequila Centinela Reposado NOM 1140 (Lote Year 2005 38% Abv.) - older 1L bottle presentation

Casa Centinela is a family owned and operated tequila distillery steeped in tradition. Its original predecessor began producing tequila around 1894, eventually Porfirio Torres Perez built the first Arandas, Jalisco tequila factory in 1904 under the name la destiladora Tequila Centinela. Later the company would be acquired by Don Jose de Jesus "Pepe" Hernandez Mendez. Don Pepe passed away in 2008, but the company was handed down to his son and two daughters. The company is still located in the city of Arandas, in the heart of the Los Altos growing region (Highlands). Casa Centinela is one of the few 100% Mexican owned distilleries remaining and is the 4th largest tequila producer in Mexico with brands Cabrito (Goat), Centinela (Sentinel), and the newest Clasico de Centinela. Note: there are currently two versions of Cabrito Tequila: Mixto (supposedly 80% Agave) and a 100% Agave; both offerings of Centinela and Clasico de Centinela are 100% Agave. 

The mature blue agave is sourced from Casa Centinela's five thousand hectares located in the Los Altos region. The blue agave pina halves are cooked and allowed to cool in one of the large capacity (15 TON) masonry hornos for around 48 hours. "The best beans are slowly cooked in a clay pot and not in a pressure cooker". The cooked agave is then put through a mechanical shredder (tears up the agave) and then a mechanical mill (molino) which extracts all the juices by applying a great amount of pressure and water  . The resulting mosto is later placed in large open stainless tanks (30000L or 100000L Capacity) without bagaso for a 4 day fermentation process with the aid of proprietary yeast strains - the Clasico de Centinela line uses a fermentation process that includes bagaso with the juices. The fermented juice is then distilled two times with one of Casa Centinela's 68 stainless steel stills (alambiques) with copper coils - Casa Centinela distills to desired proof. Supposedly Casa Centinela has the largest tequila cellar in the world with an excess of 56000+ barrels. 

Just a couple of years ago the Centinela lineup went through a presentation change - no idea if this coincided with the untimely passing of its patriarch - and the barrel aging times have also changed. Centinela Blanco still goes straight to the bottling line. The older versions of Reposado and Anejo were aged in used Jack Daniels barrels. The only information available for the current line is that Centinela Tequila is aged in American oak barrels (bourbon). Centinela Reposado: older round bottle version - aged 6-12 months: new short square bottle version - aged 18 months. Centinela Anejo: older round bottle version - aged 12 months: new short square bottle version - aged 24 months. Centinela 3 Anos: older round bottle version - aged 36 months; new tall square bottle version - aged 60 months. No clue if the current stuff is aged in new or heavily used barrels but there is a huge disparity in aging times.

Appearance: Pale yellow-straw colour with slight hue. Medium length - slow legs that cling to the sides of my Riedel glass. Aroma: cooked agave and pepper dominate, fruit (figs?), caramel/butterscotch, oak, and some alcohol. Flavour: earthy, a lot of cooked agave, pepper, caramel/butterscotch, roasted marshmallow (camp fire days - which I really dig), fruit (more like raisin?), hint of anise, subtle cinnamon, and slight oak. Semi-oily upon entry and slightly sweet - roll a sip around the mouth - get that nice balance of above mentioned flavours. Finish: lasts a LONG time with agave, caramel, intense spice and slight alcohol burn that lingers. Very enjoyable and easily one of my favourites. **HIGHLY RECOMMEND**

I make no secret of the fact that I prefer the older style tequila found in the round bottles after doing a few blind test tastes of old vs. new bottles. Something in the production or aging process has slightly changed which makes the new stuff less desirable - flavours seem dialed down a notch. I still enjoy the new offering but highly covet the older bottles. 








Saturday, August 30, 2014


   Tequila Hacienda Vieja Reposado NOM 1412 (2009 Lote Year 38% Abv.)




This particular brand of tequila is produced by the Banuelos Family at their distillery, Destiladora de Los Altos, located in Arandas, Jalisco (Highlands). The patriarch of the family, Don Felix Banuelos Jimenez, created Cazadores Tequila sometime in the 1973s using his grandfather's recipe. Subsequently in 2002 he sold the brand to Bacardi for $100-300 Million USD. NOTE: If you ever come across a bottle of Cazadores tequila NOM 1128 or NOM 1105 - buy it - as this was pre-Bacardi. After the sale, Felix Banuelos' sons - with his approval - started another brand(s), Hacienda Vieja & Don Felix, at the original distillery again utilizing Felix's grandfather's recipe.

The blue agave is sourced from their own family estate in Los Altos de Jalisco. The agave pina halves are cooked in stainless steel autoclaves for 24+ hours. The cooked agave is shredded with a shredder machine then the agave juice is extracted with a conventional roller-mill system. Then the mosto is placed in large 25000L capacity stainless steel fermentation tanks - without bagazo. Proprietary yeast(s) is added and the mosto is allowed to ferment for 7 days supposedly aided with classical music. The fermented juice is then distilled two times with one of the distillery's 4000L capacity stainless stills and 5600L capacity condensers. The Hacienda Vieja Blanco is rested in stainless steel tanks for approximately 30 days prior to bottling (38% Abv.domestic & 40% Abv. export). The Hacienda Vieja Reposado is the result of resting in new American white oak barrels for 3 months (guessing used Beam or Jack Daniels barrels) before bottling (38% Abv.domestic & 40% Abv. export). Prior to bottling this tequila is diluted, oxygenated and charcoal filtered. 

Appearance: Pale golden colour. Large-fast legs that cling to the sides of my Glencairn glass. Aroma: some sweetness, some alcohol, cooked agave, fruit, pepper/spice, vanilla/caramel and definite American whiskey/bourbon notes. Flavour: Cooked agave, earthy, slight sweetness with cherry?, pepper, hint of vanilla and caramel. Semi-oily upon entry - then roll a sip around my mouth - spicy agave and toasted oak notes intensify as it hits the mid-palate and moves to the back of the mouth. Finish: Medium duration, spicy caramel tones, lingering heat with mild peppermint? Definitely get a subtle American whiskey flavour that's well balanced with the intense agave flavours - talk about a nice barrel influence on this tequila. Don't let the price tag fool you. At about $7 USD for a 750ml bottle this Reposado has become my go to bargain tequila.  *RECOMMENDED*






Friday, August 15, 2014






                      Tequila Casa Dragones Joven NOM 1489 (2009 Release)

Casa Dragones Tequila has been getting a lot of press coverage as of late due to its release of a new "Casa Dragones Blanco, a small batch, 100% Pure Blue Agave silver" at a suggested retail price of $75.00 USD. The "Sipping Tequila" Casa Dragones Joven retails for about $275USD. The Joven is also small batch - which the brand claims that only 2000 cases are produced each year. I won't get into too much details on its background other than this particular brand is the brainchild of Bob Pittman, founder of MTV, and Bertha Gonzalez Nieves, the first woman to be certified as a 'Maestra Tequilera' by the Academia Mexicana de Catadores de Tequila, Vino y Mezcal, A.C. (which is apparently recognized by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila).

The tequila packaging itself is ok, every bottle is an old-style crystal decanter housed in a blue cardboard box. I would of went with a more rustic looking wood box myself. In fact do a little internet research on Casa Dragones, all that really turns up is video(s) on its bottle production and not to mention the various celebrity accolades from the likes of Oprah Winfrey and Martha Stewart. I've emailed and Twittered Casa Dragones asking about the actual blend ratio of the 5-year Extra Anejo to Blanco in each bottle - only to get a response "We have developed a proprietary blend for a complex, smooth taste that's ideal for sipping". Which begs the question, How much 5-year Extra Anejo is added to the Blanco? A dollop?

When @CasaDragones followed me. However their Twitter account has since blocked me


I will give Ms. Gonzalez Nieve credit as it seems that she has a lot of passion for tequila and its history. But on the other hand it's strange that this tequila is being produced at Destileria Leyros NOM 1489. A distillery that some people might describe as highly efficient - I will call it industrial. And it should come as no surprise that Ms. Gonzalez Nieve was once employed by Casa Cuervo. The information provided on the Casa Dragones website states the "agave is grown at 1200 meters above the sea level, in Tequila, Jalisco". It must be noted that I have not visited Destileria Leyros but there is a great video posted on YouTube by Quiero Tequila . One cannot mistake the mechanical contraption outside the distillery - that folks is a textbook example of a difusor/diffuser - this industrial equipment's sole purpose is to extract the maximum desired sugars from the agave with the aid of hot water and sometimes chemicals. There is no mention how the blue agave is cooked - I'm guessing the agave juice is cooked with a stainless autoclave specially fabricated for liquid . There is no mention of the fermentation process prior to distillation. **Contacted reps/owners of Republic Tequila, which has since moved to NOM 1489, and was filled in with a few bits of information. Raw uncooked Agave tequilana is put through a larger chipper/shredder. Then the agave pieces go through the diffuser. The liquid after the diffuser process is in fact cooked in an specially fabricated liquid autoclave - ** this is where the diffuser manufacturer says that acid catalyzed hydrolysis must take place for processed raw uncooked agave ** - prior to being placed in large stainless tanks for open-air fermentation. The distillery utilizes a continuous column stainless still - not unheard of in the tequila industry. Through these methods, it is quite feasible to produce a tequila blanco in abou 36+ hours. A traditionally made tequila blanco can take about 6 - 10 days to be produced.

Tomsa Destil - Goven Investments difusor 


Friendly to the environment? What is the carbon footprint of such an industrialized distillery? What methods are used to collect and recycle the acid, neutralizers and other waste(s)/byproduct(s)?

How does such tequila get its constant aromas and flavours? Guessing additives



Other brands from Destileria Leyros

Aerial view of Destileria Leyros, notice the agave piñas piled up next to the difusor and in the truck loads. How many storage tanks (silos) is that?

Destileria Leyros entrance


Appearance: colourless, thin legs that do their best to cling to the side sides of my Riedel. Aroma: mild citrus, floral hints (hibiscus?), and the hints of roasted agave is buried in there somewhere. Flavour: mild spice, mild vanilla, minty that almost masks the agave, and a slight sour bubble gum thing - something I've picked up in certain brands that use a diffuser. Don Roberto is another brand that I've gotten this flavour from and it's definitely not pleasing. Finish: burnt sugar flavour? Fades pretty fast though not leaving much to desire. Guess this is where people use the descriptor "smooth"? Very disappointing and overpriced seeing how there are many better options out in the tequila market. It also reminds me of this statement: "Por citar un ejemplo, prohibir el uso de difusores (hidrólisis de jugos de agave) que les quita "el alma" (el sabor a agave cocido) a nuestros destilados, únicos en el mundo por su complejidad aromática y de sabores". Translated: To cite an example, prohibit the use of diffusers (hydrolysis of agave juice) it takes away the "soul" (the taste of cooked agave) our spirits, unique in the world for its aromatic complexity and flavors. The website for Destileria Leyros boasts that "the flavor and aroma remains constant for each of our brands". Perhaps this is reached with legal additivesIt's interesting to note that a brand with a different NOM could feasibly source diffuser produced tequila from Destileria Leyros and not have to indicate it on the label. In other words a brand from NOMXXXX could source tequila as a 'raw' material from another brand/distillery from NOMXXXX. Something to think about. **CANNOT RECOMMEND**


Thursday, August 7, 2014

                                   

                            Tequila Fortaleza Reposado Lote #21 NOM1493

Just recently I got the chance to visit Destileria La Fortaleza (Tequila Los Abuelos, S.A. DE C.V. NOM1493) home of the brand Fortaleza Tequila and Los Abuelos Tequila in Mexico (*a trademark dispute over Los Abuelos prevented the use of it in the United States). For whatever reason the distillery stopped using the Los Abuelos labels for its bottles in Mexico and started using Fortaleza (Fortitude). If I'm not mistaken the last Lote that garnered Los Abuelos labels was Lote #14. Although Guillermo Erickson Sauza, 5th generation distiller, has stated that the Los Abuelos trademark will be retained by using the name periodically in Mexico. (*Los Abuelos is still being used in Mexico as there are a few accounts that will not sell Fortaleza, but only Los Abuelos)

Destileria La Fortaleza is nestled in a quiet area of Tequila, Jalisco aptly named "Tequila Row". The distillery and estate sits 4000 ft. above sea level in the 'Heartland' region. "Tequila Row" consists of Cuervo, Sauza, Orendain, Arette, El Tequileno, and La Tequilena to name a few. La Fortaleza's entrance can be found at the Atizcua and Tabasco junction in the town of Tequila. One definitely can't miss the old facade facing the street that bears a distinct FSJ emblem at the top of it. Once again reminding visitors of Don Francisco Javier Sauza, the grandson of Don Cenobio Sauza (founder of Tequila Sauza).

Don Cenobio started his own tequila distillery called La Perseverancia in the 1870s in Tequila, Jalisco. It must be noted that Don Cenobio was the first to export tequila into the United States - albeit called it "Mezcal de Tequila" later shortening it to just "Tequila". Then in the early 1900s Don Cenobio (tatarabuelo) passed the tradition on to his son, Eladio Sauza (bisabuelo). Don Eladio continued the tradition and in turn built another distillery called La Constancia. Later he passed the family business onto his son, Francisco Javier Sauza (abuelo) in the 1930s. Don Javier built Tequila Sauza into the biggest global producer of tequila. Javier was a pioneer in the tequila industry by helping establish the Tequila Denomination of Origin and for taking the lead on an a application process for a Tequila Appelation of Origin . Later he bought 70 acres of land and built another distillery called La Fortaleza on the outer edge of Tequila. Then some time in 1976, after entering a partnership with Pedro Domecq Mexico, the remaining outstanding interest in Tequila Sauza was sold to Pedro Domecq. Tequila Sauza is currently owned by Beam Suntory. Though the Sauza family did retain this small prime section of property on the outer edge of Tequila that the small La Fortaleza distillery sat on.

In 1999, Guillermo Erickson Sauza, grandson of Don Francisco Javier Sauza, decided to resurrect La Fortaleza into a functioning distillery to create a 100% agave Tequila. Naming the tequila Los Abuelos was an obvious choice for Guillermo to pay homage to his abuelos. Just by spending part of an afternoon with Don Guillermo in the family estate's natural caves, one can easily notice the passion & pride (my wife even said so) for his family legacy and tequila. "Everything on our bottles' labels (Blanco,Reposado,and Anejo) actually exists in real life" - Guillermo Erickson Sauza.

Fortaleza uses its own estate blue agave but also purchases agave from the small farmers around Tequila. La Fortaleza cooks the halved agave pinas minus the cogollo in a 16 tonne 1 metre thick 15000 KI Capacity brick oven (horno) with steam for 36 hours. After the cooked agave cools it goes through a chipper. Then the chopped agave fragments are crushed with a stone mill (tahona). Then the crushed agave is washed with estate well water to further separate the pulp from the wood fibre (bagasso). The wood fibre is removed and the milling process continues. This is repeated a few times. The resulting mosto is placed into one of six 3000 litre or a 6000 litre pinewood tanks for the open fermentation process that lasts about 5 days. Once that process is complete the next step is a double distillation process with La Fortaleza's two original small copper pot stills (400 litre & 250 litre) that are steam tubed and not direct fire. A good week at La Fortaleza is about 3000 litres of production. The workhorse at La Fortaleza is a 1903 Ames Iron Works boiler from Oswego, New York that is fuel-oil fired. The resulting Blanco is approximately 45% Abv. (90 Proof). The Reposado is aged 7 months in the barrel. The Anejo is aged for about 23 months in the barrel. The used American Whiskey barrels (Jack Daniels and Jim Beam) are chipped and slightly charred prior to the Blanco tequila entering - a barrel typically lasts 3 chipping cycles. Next to the main barrel room is about fifteen or more 12000 liter capacity stainless steel holding tanks labeled for Blanco, Reposado and Anejo where stock is stored ready to be bottled. La Fortaleza is expanding its barrel aging capacity by using the Cava La Fortaleza - natural cave formations under the property - to store more barrels. All expressions of Fortaleza tequila are filtered and diluted to 40% Abv. (80 Proof) with natural spring water from the Tequila Valley. "Fortaleza Lotes are not an indication of a vintage or a barreling Lote - it's a bottling Lote. A bottling Lote could end up being five different barrel Lotes. With slight variations in it" - Guillermo Erickson Sauza. The current Lotes being bottled and packaged at La Fortaleza's bottling facility are: B-L-23, R-L-23, and A-L-22.

Appearance: golden straw colour with dark amber hues; its body clings to the side of my Glencairn glass. Aroma: mild cooked agave, grassy, sweet honey, caramel & vanilla (butterscotch?), citrus (dried orange peel), basil, spicy pepper, pine and mild alcohol. Flavour: initial taste of earthy, cooked agave, slight citrus, butterscotch hard candy/caramelized apple?, and hint of cinnamon. Roll the oily juice around the mouth - immediate mild spicy (almost jalapeno-like) tinge that slightly numbs the gums & palate - talk about vegetal, that slowly recedes to a pleasantly balanced agave and hint of wood (pine?) taste around the tongue. Finish: medium duration, warms the throat, a dried fruit and spice aftertaste lingers with very mild alcohol heat. Aged well yet still holds on to many characteristics of its foundation, which itself is probably one of the best blancos available on the market. Definitely a tequila that can be sipped all night. Well played Memo. OUTSTANDING **HIGHLY RECOMMENDED**   **TOP 5 FAVOURITE BRAND**


Guillermo's passion and emphasis on using traditional, very old-fashioned methods of production and due-diligence to picking the best blue agave yields some of the best tequila being made. Hands down. While sipping on the whole Fortaleza tequila lineup in the Cava La Fortaleza Guillermo did mention a few interesting developments: the distillery may be replacing the natural cork with synthetic - due to a 'corking' complaint - still retaining the ornamental agave top; due to recent quality control issues Fortaleza may be sourcing a new bottle manufacturer; the elusive Fortaleza Extra Anejo will be released soon - of course many aficionados have heard this for years yet are anticipating for that day; and a possible future Barrel-Proof Fortaleza Reposado release. I am sure both products will be nothing short of exceptional. Thanks to the people at La Fortaleza and thank you to a gracious host for sharing the fresh, unfiltered still-strength 46% Abv. (92 Proof) Fortaleza Blanco. Saludos.










Wednesday, July 23, 2014

                                 

                             Tequila Casa Noble Reposado NOM 1137 Lote Year: 2009

Casa Noble Tequila began as a tequila producer in the late 1700s somewhere around the Tequila, Jalisco region (Lowlands or Heartland). Today, Casa Noble is produced at the La Cofradia (The Brotherhood) distillery located just outside the town Tequila. At a quick glance of a current Consejo Regulador del Tequila NOM list one could say that many tequilas/maquilas are produced at La Cofradia NOM 1137. But in this case, Casa Noble is produced by La Cofradia to the exact specific requirements of the Casa Noble partners. It helps when one of these partners just so happens to be a Casa Noble co-founder and CEO of La Cofradia, S.A. DE C.V.. The driving force behind Casa Noble Tequila appears to be another partner and co-founder, Jose "Pepe" Hermosillo Brooks. It`s unclear whether Carlos Santana bought into La Cofradia, S.A. DE C.V. and/or Casa Noble Tequila.*


Casa Noble 100% Agave Tequila is USDA certified organic, meaning "the product has 95% or more certified organic content", and KMD & CK Kosher certified. It`s not entirely clear if Casa Noble uses blue agave from its lands in Nayarit and/or estate grown agave from La Cofradia. The agaves are cooked in one of five traditional stone-walled hornos at La Cofradia for over 36 hours. After the agave piñas are cooled they are put through a two-step process that requires a wood chipper and an extractor-like press device to efficiently gather the desired mosto. The mosto is placed in large stainless vats to allow natural open-air fermentation (not certain if Casa Noble adds a yeast). After fermentation the juice is triple distilled with La Cofradia`s Alembic stainless steel pot stills. Casa Noble roughly distills to 55% Abv. (110 Proof). After distillations the tequila meant for the Blanco is filtered and diluted to a desired proof in this case 40% Abv. (80 Proof). Tequila destined to become an aged product is placed in new Frenck white oak barrels made by Taransaud Tonnellerie and placed in Casa Noble`s barrel room on site at La Cofradia distillery (noted: tequila enters barrels at 55% Abv.).

Casa Noble reposado tequila is aged for 364 days. According to a reliable inside source, the reposado is in fact a blend of two different size French white oak Taransaud Tonnellerie barrels with a light char. As noted, the tequila entered the casks at 55% Abv. and upon being dumped would be filtered, blended and diluted to desired proof in this case 40% Abv. (80 Proof). Apperance: light amber with mahogany hues and its body coats the side of my Glencairn glass. Aroma: recognize that fresh earthy roasted agave coming through from the blanco, citrus?, creamy chocolate, vanilla, salted candied burnt caramel, baking spice, and burning alcohol. Flavour: upon entry there is that earthy agave accompanied with medium sweetness with lingering spice and oak. Roll the oily juice around. Notice the numbing attack in your mouth? Trust me this is a good thing. Then some where before mid-palate I notice a smokey peppery spice with hints of citrus. Mid-palate rears intense burnt caramel, vanilla coffee bean?, more spice, hints of raw chocolate and candied nuts (almond?). This is when the back of my mouth tells me I taste a berry-like flavour. Finish: long, toasty, buttery finish, with lingering spicy pepper and chocolate notes. This particular tequila is very complex with so many flavours yet it is well-balanced. A must try for that burgeoning tequila aficionado. **RECOMMENDED** *IN MY TOP 10 REPOSADO LIST*

* Update: According to trademark records in Mexico, it appears this particular brand of tequila  began sometime around 1997. No clue if the claims of producing tequila in the 1700s are particularly true or not. In August 2014, Constellation Brands (NYSE: STZ and STZ.B) bought the Casa Noble tequila brand. Jose "Pepe" Hermosillo would remain on as the brand's most senior ambassador while overseeing the brand's operations in Mexico.


Wednesday, July 16, 2014

                       

Tequila Siete Leguas Reposado NOM 1120 Lote Year: 2001 Vintage

Siete Leguas Tequila has two different distilleries in the town of Atotonilco (Highlands) - El Centenario, a smaller facility with traditional hornos, open-air fermentation in stainless steel vats (with bagasso), tahona, and small copper pot stills (double-distillation) for the distillation process; and a more modern sophisticated facility that produces the bulk of its tequila, El Vencedera, where large brick ovens, mechanical shredder/roller mill, large stainless steel vats (open-air fermentation without bagasso) and large copper pot sills (double-distillation) are used. Siete Leguas blends its blanco tequila produced at their older factory with the blanco tequila produced at their newer factory to achieve a certain desired flavour profile. Then this batch of tequila is sent to either the bottling facility for their blanco and/or the barrel rooms to later become part of its aged tequila lineup. Supposedly Siete Leguas uses untoasted white oak barrels that previousy housed American Whiskey.     

Siete Leguas rose to prominance as the producer for the "original" Patrón tequila (1989 - 2002), which was sold in the United States by Martin Crowley. This is an entirely different story and I highly suggest googling it for all the details. On its own merit, Siete Leguas is a well known tequila producer within the borders of Mexico.    

I am to assume that this reposado 2001 vintage was aged along the current Siete Leguas reposado line, 8 months in used untoasted white oak American Whiskey barrels. Although this particular bottle is 38% Abv. (76 Proof). Appearance: pale yellow colour and its body coats the side of my Glencairn glass. Aroma: earthy agave, candied toffee & caramel, hint of roasted vanilla marshmallow, citrus peel, ginseng, spiciness (pepper) and burning alcohol. Flavour: the initial taste rears intense full flavour of agave, fruity sweetness and spiciness. Roll the semi-oily juice over your tongue, gums and let it touch the roof of your mouth and be rewarded with a slightly numbing effect. The Candied toffee & caramel work surprisingly well with the toasted oak flavours, earthy agave and ginseng notes. Finish: the finish has a medium hot factor with a long warm fade that rounds out nicely while coating the mouth with bursts of agave, peppery spice, and the toffee & caramel flavours.  

One complaint that I could see coming from the average tequila consumer in regards to Siete Leguas reposado is that even though it is complex some may deem it a bit harsh and rustic. Some aficionados claim that Siete Leguas still has that "old school" taste. Meaning that the tequila hasn`t been smoothed out for a specific demographic. This is an outstanding tequila and if you happen to see a bottle with this older label grab it. Definitely one of my favorite brands out there. **HIGHLY RECOMMENDED** *TREASURE BOTTLE ALERT*