Possible New Future Releases: Tequila, Mezcal And Other Agave Related Spirits etc.

Malinalli Tequila moves from to Corporación Ansan (NOM 1360) to Destiladora Juanacatlan (NOM 1551)

Suerte Single Barrel Limited Edition 7 Year Extra Añejo Tequila

Disparos Tequila (named after the playing cards?)

Herencia Mexicana Tequila Extra Anejo

Mezcalero No. 16 Madrecuixe (Los Danzantes)

Mezcalosfera de Mezcaloteca Tobalá/Verde/Madrecuixe/Cuixe/Espadin

Ocho 2016 Single Estate Tequila Reposado Puerta del Aire

Quiéreme Mucho Tepextate

Red Eye Louie's Tequila Plata

A Possible Mexcalitas Zignum Flavoured Mezcal?

First off, let's put to rest any rumour that the Coca Cola Company owns a mezcal brand. Ok, the Coca Cola Company may own a mezcal brand but just not Zignum or El Señorío. Really don't where the Coca Cola connection came from but perhaps it had something to do with a company named Corporación de los Ángeles, S.A. de C.V. that was somehow involved in a merger between Coca-Cola FEMSA and Grupo CIMSA. It does appear that Corporación de los Ángeles, S.A. de C.V. filed a trademark for Zignum that was later disputed and won by Casa Armando Guillermo Prieto, S.A. de C.V.. What was the story behind the dispute? No clue. At one point Corporación de los Ángeles, S.A. de C.V. did own the trademark for El Señorío. AGPCH, S.A. de C.V. currently owns El Señorío.

On paper, Zignum was originally owned by Casa Armando Guillermo Prieto, S.A. de C.V.. El Señorío's ownership went from Bugarin Exportaciones, S. de R.L. de C.V. to Corporación de los Ángeles, S.A. de C.V. to Casa Armando Guillermo Prieto, S.A. de C.V.. Both of these brands' ownership have since transferred over to AGPCH, S.A. de C.V.. Further complicating things, AGPCH, S.A. de C.V. bought the Mexcalitas trademark from Bacardi & Company Limited. Then as you can see from the labels included above AGPCH, S.A. de C.V.  came up with Mexcalitas Zignum mezcal silver jamaica, limón, and tamarindo. Where exactly does a flavoured mezcal produced at an industrial distillery with a difusor fit in the current market? Guess it's mezcal's equivalent of bastardized cinnamon flavoured whiskey or flavoured tequila. And to think all this after NOM 186, NOM 070, and NOM 199. Maybe we should just adopt a "No" stance on such industrialization of agave spirits. These agave spirits deserve more respect for their ancestral roots. Besides agave is not quite the renewable resource people are led to believe especially without any strictly enforced rules and sustainable practice(s). 

Tequila Blanco Side X Side Blind Spring 2016 Taste-Off

We decided to do another blind taste testing of two randomly picked groups on separate days. We will not being doing a breakdown of all the minutiae of each individual distillery (ie. whether an autoclave or horno is used to cook the agave; shredder, roller-mill, press, or tahona; fermentation methods; distillation methods). Besides researching for such information is half the fun. Two of these brands are marketed with the intent and hope of illustrating the acceptance of the LGBT community and its movement in Mexico. Something which the federal government of Mexico has been dragging its feet on for years. Riedel tequila glasses and Glencairn whisky glasses were used.

Group A 

Brand "7" - Appearance: clear, colourless, forming medium, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: baked agave, grassy, honey caramel?, herbal (peppermint tea?), spicy pepper (jalapeño?), fruit (citrus), some pungent earthiness. Flavour: baked agave, some mild sweetness and spiciness (jalapeño?) - the vegetal notes seem to compete with the earthy notes (in a good way). Slightly oily upon entry that pleasantly coats the mouth - some numbness on the lips, gums and mouth. A peppermint herbal - citrus note lingers in the back with some alcohol burn. Finish: nice - medium-long - with some lingering baked agave, grassiness, peppermint and spice. Reminded us of older Partida (in case you don't know this is a good thing).

Brand "2" - Appearance: clear, colourless with a faint bluish hue, forming medium, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: abundance of roasted agave, earthy (wet rocks?), fruity (green apple?), citrus zest (lime?), peppery, some alcohol. Flavour: roasted agave is matched with spiciness (black pepper), definitely some minerality, a mild sweetness that turns slightly stringent and dry. Semi-oily upon entry - chewy and creamy (buttery?) - numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - some alcohol and pepper notes felt in the nasal passage - zesty citrus note lingers mid palate - bold heat in the mouth with that black pepper note in the back. Finish: long and very well balanced - all the above flavours layered just right - with a bold spicy black pepper and some heat. Great sipper. Could shine in a cocktail. Reminds us of a dialed up Siete Leguas blanco (a favourite).

Brand "6" - Appearance: clear, colourless, forming skinny, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: fresh roasted agave, earthy, spice (black pepper?), smoke, old leather, raw honey, dried herbs (spearmint?), hint of citrus (lemon?), nutty?. Flavour: roasted agave, earthy, mild sweetness (raw honey?), get a hint of smoke?, spiciness (black pepper?) starts mid-palate moves the back of the throat, hint of citrus, some alcohol, roasted peanuts?. Semi-oily upon entry - almost creamy butter - intense numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - alcohol in the nasal passage - accompanied with some bitterness, mild alcohol heat and brininess in the back. Finish: medium to long - there is a lot of intense flavours going on with this one, that will keep you guessing in a good way - like that roasted peanut thing. Nicely done.

Brand "5" - Appearance: clear, colourless, forming medium, fast legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: cooked agave, vegetal (sauerkraut?), some citrus (lime), hint of mint, definitely a punch of alcohol. Flavour: loads of cooked agave, very vegetal, some bitterness, alcohol bite (very hot). Thick and oily mouth feel upon entry - accompanied with a lot of numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - felt some tingling in the nasal passage - lots of heat in the back. Finish: long - creamy - lingering cooked agave and vegetal flavours. Definitely slaps you in the face but leaves you with a nice warm feeling.

Group B 

Brand "1" - Appearance: clear, colourless, forming medium, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: roasted agave, green pepper, earthy - minerality (wet rocks?), light smoke?, mushroomy?. Flavour: roasted agave, spicy (black pepper), slightly briny and that mineral note, hint of citrus (orange?), hint of black licorice?. Semi-oily upon entry - mild numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - some heat, smokiness? and peppery note in the back. Finish: Medium to long - with a very strong earthy and pepper note that goes well with the lingering agave sweetness. Just a great balance of flavours that coats the mouth and throat - lasting a long time.

Brand "4" - Appearance: clear, colourless, with a silver hue. forming skinny, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: cooked agave, citrus tart?, vegetal, some earthiness (wet stones?), Flavour: fresh roasted agave, very vegetal, subtle sweetness (honey?), mild spice (pepper?), slighly tannic and briny, citrus (lime peel?). Semi-oily upon entry - slightly creamy - subtle numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - hint of smoke and fennel? in the back. Finish: medium - crisp, clean roasted agave, mild earthiness and spiciness. Great balance. Reminiscent of an Arenal brand that we are very fond of.

Brand "3" - Appearance: clear, colourless, forming skinny, slow legs on the side of the glass. Aroma: baked agave, grassy, cracked black pepper, floral and vanilla?, hint of fruit (ripe banana?), some alcohol. Flavour: cooked agave, some earthiness, spice (black pepper), honey-roasted beets?, smokey?. Semi-oily upon entry - some tingling numbness on the lips, gums and in the mouth - hint of cinnamon? in the back. Finish: short to medium - some earthy and grassiness - crisp roasted agave - black pepper - hint of alcohol. Very consistent flavours. Nice sipper. 

We can definitely recommend picking up any of these brands mentioned here without the fear of disappointment. The higher proof tequilas could be a tad overwhelmingly for the casual beginner, but worth it in our opinion. Glad to see we picked up on the one that sort of resembled another brand from the same distillery, Cascahuin. And remember, tasting can be very subjective, everybody's palates are different, if you find a tequila that you enjoy, enjoy it.

The particular brands are: Alicantes Pintos 40% Abv. NOM-1480 (1); Pueblo Viejo 52% Abv. NOM-1103 (2); Identity 40% Abv. NOM-1438 (3); LGBTKLA 40% Abv. NOM-1123 (4); Don Chencho 55% Abv. NOM-1584 (5); Arette Fuerte 50.5% Abv. NOM-1109 (6): Giggling Marlin 40% Abv. NOM-1500 (7).

Possible New Future Releases: Tequila, Mezcal And Other Agave Related Spirits etc.

Alipus Mezcal Ensamble Joven?

Aprendiz Mezcal Espadin-Tepextate Joven?

Collectivo Regional Raicilla and Sotol?

Corralejo Tequila Blanco, Reposado, and Extra Anejo Conmemorativo Aniversario?

Fidencio Mezcal Cochon Pechuga Reposado - Cochon555 Tour Barrel Project?

Tequila Herradura 2016 Coleccion de la Casa Cognac Cask Finished Reposado?

AC/DC Thunderstruck blanco, reposado and anejo from Fabrica de Tequilas Finos NOM 1472

Raicilla La Venenosa Puntas?

Lunazul Tequila Reposado Double Barrel Special Reserve 2016 - Rittenhouse Rye Barrel Finish?

San Matías Tequila Tahona Blanco?

4 Copas Tequila Blanco, Reposado, Anejo (moved from Compañía Tequilera La Quemada NOM 1457 to Tequila Las Americas NOM 1480)?

A Quick Argument Against Rumour: Additives Are Prohibited In 100% Agave Tequila Blancos According To NORMA Oficial Mexicana NOM-006-SCFI-2012, Bebidas alcohólicas-Tequila-Especificaciones

A few years back, a well respected individual in the industry that operates destination tours in Mexico for tequila and mezcal announced that additives of any sort were no longer allowed in 100% agave tequila blancos. Though the other 100% agave categories (gold, reposado, anejo and extra anejo) were supposedly still fair game for such enhancement(s). This interpretation was dependent on a particular passage in the NOM-006-SCFI-2012. That passage is "4.36.1 Tequila blanco o plata Producto transparente no necesariamente incoloro, sin abocante, obtenido de la destilación añadiendo únicamente agua de dilución y lo previsto en el numeral 6.1.1.1 en los casos que proceda para ajustar la graduación comercial requerida, pudiendo tener una maduración menor de dos meses en recipientes de roble o encino." Sorry for the bad translation: 4.36.1 White or silver tequila not necessarily colorless transparent product, without abocante, obtained by distillation only adding dilution water and the provisions of paragraph 6.1.1.1 where appropriate to adjust the required commercial graduation, may have less than two months maturation in oak or oak containers. Where appropriate? The inconsistency or perhaps one would say the contradiction is that the NORMA provides an option for additives, "6.1.1.1 Cuando a los Tequilas definidos en los incisos 4.36.1, 4.36.2, 4.36.3, 4.36.4 y 4.36.5 se les agregue edulcorantes, colorantes, aromatizantes y/o saborizantes permitidos por la Secretaría de Salud, con objeto de proporcionar o intensificar su color, aroma y/o sabor, pueden tener como máximo 75 g/L de azúcares o azúcares reductores totales de acuerdo a la NMX-V-006-NORMEX y 85 g/L de extracto seco a la NMX-V-017-NORMEX (véase capítulo 3, Referencias). Para lo establecido en este párrafo se debe cumplir con lo dispuesto en el literal c) del inciso 11.1 de la presente NOM. El uso de cualquiera de los abocantes a que se refiere el punto 4.1 de la presente norma no debe ser mayor del 1% en relación al peso total que tiene el Tequila antes de su envasado. El productor deberá llevar los registros correspondientes de la materia prima empleada." Translation: 6.1.1.1 When the Tequilas defined in paragraphs 4.36.1, 4.36.2, 4.36.3, 4.36.4 and 4.36.5 that added sweeteners, colourings, aromatic flavourings and / or artificial flavourings permitted by the Ministry of Health in order to provide or enhance its colour, aroma and / or flavor, can be up to maximum 75 g / L of sugars or total reducing sugars according to the NMX-V-006-NORMEX and 85 g / L of dry extract NMX -V-017-NORMEX (see chapter 3 References). For the provisions of this paragraph must comply with the provisions of paragraph c) of Section 11.1 of this NOM. The use of any of the abocantes to section 4.1 of this standard should not be greater than 1% relative to the total weight that the Tequila before packaging is concerned. The producer shall keep adequate records of the raw material used. What's puzzling is those additives permitted by Mexico's Ministry of Health for use are shrouded in secrecy and try to find any information on NMX-V-006-NORMEX.

One reason why I had serious doubt about this 'interpreted' new "no additives" rule for 100% agave tequila blancos was the answer(s) provided by the Mexican government to comments put forward by respected scholar, Dr. Patricia Colunga, received on the Draft Mexican Official Standard NOM-006-SCFI-2012. Then again it all comes down to interpretation of the NOM - which is in Spanish and translation varies...

Then a few months ago Casa Cuervo announced a new 100% agave tequila blanco, Maestro Dobel Humito™ Smoked Silver Tequila 44% Abv.. Interesting. Something that casts more doubt on the supposed new "no additive" rule for such tequila offerings. Casa Cuervo CEO, Juan Domingo Beckmann, said, "I’m very happy that we were the first ones to bring back tequila that tastes and is done in the same way as we think it did 100 years ago, when they used to cook the agave with mesquite wood." Then this piece, "Maestro Dobel Tequila Launches Humito, the First Smoked Silver Tequila" and "Humito is made of 100 percent agave and gets its complex smoky taste and aroma from an unique technique that utilizes Mexican mesquite wood during the artisanal process", and more doubt about the "no additive" rule's authenticity. Is big tequila riding the popularity coattails of mezcal? What next, the Agave tequilana is cooked in earthen pits similar to producers of mezcal, raicilla, bacanora etc.? Has anyone actually seen any underground, earthen pits at either of Casa Cuervo's distilleries? And no, not the unused 'demo' rock pit on display at Fábrica la Rojeña - Mundo Cuervo. Why not call it artificial mezcal? That's right it can't, but how about, "a tequila that tastes sort of like a mezcal"?  Acceptable? Is some type of 'essence of mesquite' smoke added to this 100% agave tequila.  Maybe we are wrong. Keep in mind Casa Cuervo owns the largest difusor in Mexico. There are plenty of companies that manufacture and provide natural & artificial flavourings and extracts for alcohol spirits. We hate to pick on Casa Cuervo but this was the newest most obvious example of ridiculousness. And again maybe we are wrong. If that is indeed the case. Casa Cuervo please reach out us on twitter. There are plenty of flavoured tequila products out there to muddy the waters. Consumers already have to carefully navigate through aisles of product displaying "made from" or "made with" 100% agave on the label. Yet some of these products are merely wines, liqueurs or cordials cleverly disguised as 100% 100% agave tequila - possibly (not necessarily) containing more additives and/or enhancements. Sorry. Just 'call it like one sees it'. Caveat emptor.

Mezcal (Joven) Side X Side Blind Spring 2016 Taste-Off

With mezcal in sort of a holding pattern at the moment - with both new proposals NOM-070 and NOM-199 literally hovering over Mexico - I felt such a review was long over-due. If you have no clue what I am writing about just click over to my last post. It explains just some of the tactical maneuvering and politicking taking place behind the agave based alcohol spirits 'scene' in Mexico. We will not attempt to use the new categories suggested in NOM-070 to tag the particular brands after the tasting: 1). mezcal (industrial); 2). mezcal artesanal; and 3). mezcal ancestral. It's safe to say that most of these brands fall into 2 or 3 - or somewhere in-between artesanal and ancestral. If a brand or anyone disagrees with our assessment it can and will be corrected. Clay copitas, jicaras and Glencairn whisky glasses were used. Before sipping a dab of each mezcal was placed on the dorsum part of our hands for a quick initial first impression. 

Group 1:

Brand "B" - Dorsum: earthy - musty herbal (ginger?) - pipe tobacco - salty ocean spray? Aroma: roasted agave, very earthy, old leather, spicy nuttiness (cardamom?), subtle sweetness, flinty, briny, smoky tobacco, faint citrus note (orange rind?) Flavour: fresh cooked agave, some minerality, there's that spicy nuttiness (cardamom?), faint tobacco, hint of smoke, salty-caramelized sugar? Very oily upon entry that nicely coats the mouth accompanied with mild a numbness. A citrus herbal note lingers in the back - hard to peg. Finish: long - sort of grabs on for a bit then softens - with faint traces of flavours mentioned above but that cooked agave lingers on. Definitely worthy.

Brand "L" - Dorsum: perfumy - floral (rose?) - herbaceous. Aroma: earthy, faint roasted agave, hay?, wet clay, plaster?, faint fruit (pear?), some fennel or anise, traces of smoke, floral (rose again?), some spiciness. Flavour: cooked agave, very earthy (dirt), green apple?, herbal (more anise), rose hips?, spice (cinnamon), hint of ash. Semi-oily upon entry - that transitions from sweet agave to a slight alcohol sting to dry tart (cherry?) snap at the back of the mouth. Some lip, gum and mouth numbness - some of the flavour nuances rolled up to the nasal passage. Finish: long - faint smokiness, a dry spicy sweetness returns toward the back of the mouth and throat. The lingering burn is actually nice and soft. There is a lot of complexity going on with this one.

Brand "G" - Dorsum: deep earthiness - worn old leather - briny. Aroma: fresh roasted agave, grassy, mushroom? (dried morel?), some herbal, citrus, wet slate?, hint of scorched peat? subtle alcohol. Flavour: soft roasted agave, very earthy, black olives, mushroom?, overripe fruit(s) (banana and apricot?), a soft smoky wood (cedar?) note. Very viscous upon entry with mild lip, gum and mouth numbness - get a spicy nutty thing and some alcohol in the back. Finish: medium long, mild sweetness, fruity (banana and apricot?), subtle ash hint, notice that spicy nutty thing more, while maintains that earthiness. Where did the olive, mushroom, nutty notes come from?  Definitely enjoyable while many flavours keeps you guessing. 

Brand "E" - Dorsum: herbaceous - beef-jerky? - hints of fruit (melon?) - musky pipe tobacco? Aroma: loads of fresh cooked agave, cheese (parmesan?), lemongrass, spicy cinnamon hard candy (think Hot Tamales), buried under all of that is subtle scorched mesquite (reminiscent of carne asada bbq?) Flavour: roasted agave, minerality (wet rocks?), mild beef-jerky?, spicy cinnamon. Semi-oily upon entry - pleasant numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - all flavours  mentioned act in unison fairly well - the beef-jerky note lingers somewhere in the back? Finish: long - dry - soft roasted agave - tobacco again? and can't help but notice that beef-jerky component. This definitely could be a meal substitute. Hats off to the master distiller and palenque. 

Group 2:

Brand "I" - Dorsum: herbal (pine?) - flinty. Aroma: strong roasted agave, burnt caramel?, wet rocks, herbal (rosemary or pine?), floral (daffodil?). tobacco (lit cigar?), incense (burnt sandalwood?) Flavour: loads of roasted agave, sweet (raw honey), some spiciness (black pepper), orange rind, caramelized brown sugar. Semi-oily upon entry - sharp numbness in the mouth - lips tingle, that softens out with some sweetness. Notice a smoky citrus spicy component at the back of the mouth and down the throat. Finish: medium - somewhat dry with some saltiness - maintains some earthiness, almost find a smoky menthol component. Would make a great dessert spirit or maybe an apéritif. Pleasing.

Brand "D" - Dorsum: ripe fruit (mango?) - floral. Aroma: cooked agave, butter & honey, mild smoke - hint of sulphur, winter rye seed?, minty, vanilla?, sugared mango, yellow dandelion? Flavour: loads of roasted agave, scorched earth, fruitiness (there's that mango again), herbal-mint (marjoram?), cinnamon? Viscous upon entry with a smoky sweet tangy thing going on - roll a sip around the mouth - with mild numbness on lips. gums and mouth rooftop - notice a tug of cinnamon-mango in the back area. Finish: long and pleasant, oily, almost chewy with some lingering cinnamon notes? Nicely done.

Brand "H" - Dorsum: spicy - herbal - leather - fruit (apricot?). Aroma: roasted agave, earthy (wet clay?), layered herbal notes (clove and sage?), citrus (ripe orange), heather honey, varnish?, mild almost soft smokiness, fruity. Flavour: roasted agave, earthy (wet clay?), briny, vegetal (spinach?), adhesive (Elmer's glue-stick?), nice clove note and hint of smoke and alcohol in the back. Really viscous upon entry - with a not to subtle stinginess and numbing of the lips, gums and mouth that eventually mellows out nicely with sweet citrus notes (sort of reminds me of biting into a raw serrano chile then eating a slice of orange dabbed in yellow honey?) - then out of nowhere notice some epazote? Finish: long - mild alcohol bite - spicy and herbal. Really impressed with the intensity and some odd flavours. Very challenging.

Brand "A" - Dorsum: earthy - very herbacious - mild fruit (citrus). Aroma: earthy (wet clay?), mild sweetness (raw honey), herbal (fennel?), fruit (almost acetone?). Flavour: roasted agave, spicy (pepper), smoky, flinty, mango with ripe citrus tones (lime and orange peel?), and a subtle smokiness. Semi-oily upon entry - roll a sip around the mouth - and get a nice unison of above mentioned flavours accompanied with a lingering numbness in the whole mouth. Noticed some black licorice at the back-end of the mouth. Finish: long - dry with an earthy bite. Very pleasing. 

Group 3:

Brand "F" - Dorsum: briny - spicy - grassy - leather. Aroma: roasted agave, vegetal (radish?), floral (chamomile?), barbecued jalapeno, herbal (chamomile tea?), slight ash, burnt cedar?, mild sweetness, Flavour: roasted agave, earthy, spicy (jalapeno?), citrus (orange?), nutty espresso (salty toasted almond with vanilla?), Semi-oily upon entry - mild numbness in the mouth - with a spicy herbal, smoky ash, burnt wood thing lingering in the back. Finish: medium, soft alcohol bite - somewhat tart - fruity - nutty. Not overtly complex but pleasant. 

Brand "J" - Dorsum: herbal ( thyme?) - butter - peppermint tea. Aroma: mild roasted agave, earthy (wet rocks?), cotton candy?, green apple, fig newton?, minty tobacco?, Flavour: fresh cooked agave, buttery, slight brininess, Semi-oily upon entry - sharp numbness in the mouth that mellows out with some sweetness. Notice a smoky herbal (pine?) note at the back of the mouth and down the throat. Finish: medium - somewhat dry - maintains some earthiness, almost find a smoky menthol component. Would make a great dessert spirit or maybe an apéritif. Pleasing.

Brand "K" - Dorsum: earthy - smoky (slightly burnt cedar wood?) - medicinal/floral (eucalyptus). Aroma: roasted agave, earthy, slightly herbal (oregano?), aloe vera sap?, mild alcohol. Flavour: lots of roasted agave, fresh rich earthiness, some sweetness, anise, ripe pear, Semi-oily upon entry - flinty - soft numbness on the lips, gums and mouth - accompanied with a warm, aromatic, slightly bitter, and camphoraceous taste (eucalyptus?) in the back of the mouth and throat. Finish: medium to long - dry - salty, tangy, smoky (kind of like old style barbecue potato chips?), hint of alcohol. It was a symphony of congenial flavors.

Brand "C" - Dorsum: musky - old leather - sweet dry hay - herbal - smoky homemade barbecue sauce? Aroma: cooked ripe agave, herbal, (dried lavender?), earthy (hint of scorched peat?), honeysuckle nectar?, subtle alcohol. Flavour: nice roasted agave, slight grassiness, spicy (serrano chile?), minty, hint of rosemary, white pepper, mild sweetness, citrus (orange peel?). Semi-oily upon entry - mild tingling on the lips and in the nasal passage, some numbness on the gums and mouth - peppery spiciness and mild smokiness drifts away when a sweet honey like taste comes from nowhere (honeysuckle nectar?). Finish: medium - dry - hint of alcohol while maintaining some fresh earthiness. Could gently sip this all night with tacos, salchichas and papas.

Having enjoyed these mezcals for some time and accumulated so so many tasting notes, decided to randomly select and break them down into three groups to revisit. Decided that one group per day was plenty to avoid any palate fatigue. It was a joy to revisit some that we forgot about and surprised that some aromas and flavours had changed somewhat, but all in all these are some solid offerings. It definitely reminds you that mezcal is kicking tequila's ass in the complexity department. Some of these are available outside of Mexico.

The particular brands are: Guelaxu cuishe 48% Abv. (A), La Orden Del Sol espadin 45% Abv. (B), Lagrimas de Delores durangensis 45% Abv. (C), La Medida tobala 47% Abv. (D),  Augurio tobala 47% Abv. (E), Bosscal durangensis 42% Abv. (F), Don Esther papalome 54% Abv. (G), La Porfiria papalote 52% Abv. (H), Rio Revuelto ensamble (50% espadín & 50% madrecuixe) 47% Abv. (I), Barro de Cobre espadin 43% Abv. (J), Casa Crespo madrecuixe 50% Abv. (K), El Rey de Matatlán madrecuixe 50% Abv. (L). 

NOM-199. Alcohol Laws: A Looming Change For Agave Spirits In Mexico. Is it Vino de Mezcal? Is it Tequila? Is it Mezcal? Is it Destilado de Agave? Is it Aguardiente de Agave? Is it Bacanora? Is it Raicilla? Is it Sotol? Is it Komil? 

What came first, tequila or mezcal? What about their denominaciónes de origen? Yes, there is a separate denominación de origen for each agave (maguey) based alcoholic spirit: tequila, mezcal, bacanora, and sotol (Dasylirion wheeleri is now in a different family category). Currently, raicilla does not have its own denominación de origen. An agave based spirit produced outside any of these denominaciónes de origen is technically classified as a destilado de Agave (apparently this is about to change). Besides the DOs, there are various NOMs (Norma Oficial Mexicana) - laws passed by Mexico's federal government - which stipulate rules and regulations that these type of spirits must adhere to. Back to the first question, what came first, tequila or mezcal? Any idea? Does it really matter? One tequila company loves to use the "beginning in Tequila, Mexico" and "founded in 1795" historical tidbits, yet fails to mention anywhere on their label it has the biggest diffuser in all of Mexico at one of its two distilleries. It's unbelievable that the Spanish assumed the indigenous people didn't have the means, knowledge or capability of producing alcoholic spirits through various means of fermentation and distillation. Perhaps, the Spanish were selectively ignorant. Maybe the Spanish destroyed all the indigenous people's tools for distillation and all records of it. Clay pots can be used. Apparently a tree trunk can be used. Is the tequila narrative built under false pretense(s)? What about all the archaeological research exploring the possibility of pre-Hispanic distillation? To be honest seeing as the governing bodies within Mexico certified Zignum as mezcal, doubt they'd construct news laws to actually protect such a cultural treasure - much less support any such investigative research.

Agave based spirits have always enjoyed a relatively warm appreciation around the globe. It's no secret that for decades bulk mixo-tequila has been shipped, bottled, and labeled as Tequila in other countries outside of Mexico. It's claimed that the "U.S. is Mexico’s largest export market for tequila, accounting for 50 percent of Mexico’s total production," A few things happened along the way towards the 21st century. The rise in popularity of 100% agave premium tequila around the mid-late 1980s to early 1990s. On December 20, 1994, the Mexican government devalued the peso. Then in the late 1990s the agave crisis kicked in, and prices skyrocketed. Tequila producers paid around 7,000 pesos for a ton of agave. Some producers shifted production to mixto-tequila only to offset costs. A new tequila NOM that permitted the use of industrial diffusers in the production methods. Insert celebrity, actor, professional athlete, or musician owned private brand here. Various brand endorsements. Medals and spirits competitions. The sudden appreciation outside of Mexico for traditionally made 100% agave mezcal. The gradual genetic weakening of the Agave tequilana due to over-reliance on asexual reproduction. Allegations abound that tequila companies were illegally procuring Agave from outside their denominación de origen. The continuous over-harvesting of wild agave and no real reforestation initiatives. Once upon a time, companies and investors rushed at the chance to purchase or start a tequila brand. Now mezcal is the new black, with the likes of William Grant & Sons (Montelobos), Diageo (Unión), David Ravandi (123 Organic Tequila and ex-owner Casa Noble Tequila), Riazul, La Cofradia, Mexcor and Casa Cuervo (400 Conejos and Creyente) getting involved with a mezcal brand. All the while, the Mexican government steps in and tables proposals NOM-186, NOM-070, and NOM-199.

In 2011, a proposed legislation called PROY-NOM-186-SCFI-2011, Bebidas Alcohólicas, Bebidas Alcohólicas Elaboradas a Partir de Agaváceas was tabled for discussion. NOM-186 intended to trademark the word "agave". It dealt with the regulation of distilled agave spirits in Mexico and proposed the exclusive use of the word agave for processed products and registered designations of origin mezcal, tequila and bacanora.  For example, a mezcal producer outside the DO mezcal could only call their spirit aguardiente or destilado de agaváceas. They could not declare the sugar content of agave that the spirit is made from, even if it was 100% agave. Basically they could not produce traditional mezcal (a 100% agave spirit with an alcohol content between 40 and 55 percent), but could produce a somewhat inferior lower alcohol proof product. Fortunately, NOM-186 did not pass into law. But who would throw their support behind such a restrictive proposal?

Correspondence from Don Julio supporting the NOM-186 proposal. At that time Casa Cuervo and Diageo jointly owned (50/50) Don Julio tequila

Master distiller José Manuel Vivanco at Destileria El Ranchito Feliciano - Vivanco y Asociados (NOM 1414) praised National Chamber for the Tequila Industry (CNIT) and COMEFER's attempts to trademark "agave"

Back in 2012, Luis Velasco Fernández, President and CEO of La Madrileña, S.A. de C.V. (NOM 1142) expressed opposition to NOM 186. Don Luis Velasco Fernández, became new president of the National Chamber of the Tequila Industry (CNIT) in 2015. 

How can a binomial nomenclature be trademarked? Agave is part of the binomial nomenclature system. It is commonly understood and accepted that a binomial nomenclature can not be trademarked. What's intriguing and bewildering is that both CNIT (Camara Nacional de la Industria Tequilera) and CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila) have attempted or are attempting to trademark "agave".

Then sometime in 2014 - 2015 the Mexican government with the assistance of CRM (Consejo Regulador del Mezcal) tabled a proposal to update the Proyecto de Norma Oficial Mexicana NOM-070-SCFI-1994, Bebidas Alcohólicas-. Mezcal-Especificaciones with Proyecto de Norma Oficial Mexicana PROY-NOM-070-SCFI-2015, Bebidas alcohólicas-Mezcal-Especificaciones. NOM-070 appeared to be a genuine attempt by CRM and its president, Hipócrates Nolasco Cancino, to reach out and consult with mezcaleros and families inside the  mezcal  denominación de origen to clearly define the specific categories of 100% agave mezcal (the 80% agave mezcal was going to be eliminated): 1). mezcal (industrial); 2). mezcal artesanal; and 3). mezcal ancestral. The raw material must undergo the following procedure(s) as stated in the NOM for each category to qualify as that specific mezcal. Still unclear whether the use of an diffuser would still be permitted in the mezcal (industrial) category.

Then just a few months after the PROY-NOM-070-SCFI-2015, the federal government of Mexico - Secretaría de Economía - released a proposal, Proyecto de Norma Oficial Mexicana PROY-NOM-199-SCFI-2015, Bebidas alcohólicas-Denominación, especificaciones fisicoquímicas, información comercial y métodos de prueba, that would completely overhaul all alcoholic spirits produced, bottled and imported inside the Estados Unidos Mexicanos. It is definitely a bold move by the government of Mexico. One could argue it is a heavy-handed attempt of compromise protectionism or perhaps something else entirely. A study by Euromonitor International did find that a staggering 43 per cent of the spirits consumed in Mexico were untaxed and illegal - either faked, contraband, unregulated or the product of under-invoicing. So where does that leave PROY-NOM-070-SCFI-2015? NOM-199 revisits the exclusive use of agave from NOM-186. A spirit produced outside any denominación de origen that uses agave as a raw material would now be categorized as komil - with no allowed mention of what variety of agave was used or the percentage of agave used. A spirit in the komil category would only need to be made from 51 percent agave. In other words it could be very difficult for the consumer to differentiate on the label between a small producer distilling a 100 percent agave spirit and an industrial producer manipulating their spirit with 49 percent sugar cane or corn syrup. Again, ask yourself, who would support such restrictive measures? Ildefonso Guajardo Villarreal, a Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) politicain, and Luis Velasco Fernández, the president of the National Chamber of the Tequila Industry (CNIT) appear to support NOM-199,

I understand restricting the use of the words tequila, mezcal, bacanora etc. (must respect denominaciónes de origen), but it's ridiculous to restrict the use of agave. Why not allow producers outside the denominaciónes de origen to use destilado de agave. For the small families producing agave spirits (up to 200 litres per month*) in a DO, but unable to pay the full fees and monies to the organization overseeing certification for that denominaciónes de origen, why not permit the use of destilado de agave or permitted name in that DO. Maybe create some sort of cooperative  for such families in the DOs, but if this already exists perhaps expand on it. Again, an argument can be made where agave is a binomial nomenclature which can not be trademarked or even its use restricted for that matter. Unfortunately, it appears Camara Nacional de la Industria Tequilera, Consejo Regulador del Tequila, Consejo Regulador del Mezcal, Consejo Sonorense Promotor de la Regulación del Bacanora, and various national, multinational and transnational corporations have all thrown their support behind NOM-199. Respected scholar, Patricia Colunga García-Marín, wrote this response to NOM-199. But this letter in opposition to NOM-186 said it best: 

"Este proyecto, al igual que el propuesto por el Instituto Mexicano de la Propiedad Industrial (IMPI), para declarar la palabra Agave como una marca de uso exclusivo de los productores de las DO Tequila, Mezcal y Bacanora (Expediente No. 08/0116/171011), pretende establecer normas legales que, de ser aprobadas, significarían: 1) La violación del derecho del consumidor de contar con información adecuada y clara sobre los productos que adquiere, los cuales deben especificar de forma correcta su cantidad, características, composición, calidad y precio, 2) La exclusión de cientos de productores de mezcales artesanales tradicionales del mercado de bebidas alcohólicas, vulnerando así la garantía prevista en el Artículo 5º de nuestra Constitución, que señala que a nadie se le podrá impedir que se dedique a una profesión, industria, comercio o trabajo lícito, y 3) La destrucción de una parte del patrimonio biológico y cultural de los mexicanos, violando los convenios internacionales que sobre la materia han sido firmados por nuestro país."

"This project, as proposed by the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property (IMPI), to declare the word Agave as a mark of exclusive use of the producers of the DO Tequila, Mezcal and Bacanora (Docket No. 08/0116 / 171011), it aims to establish legal rules that, if approved, would mean: 1) the violation of the right of consumers to have adequate and clear information about the products you purchase, which must be specified correctly quantity, characteristics, composition, quality and price, 2) the exclusion of hundreds of producers of traditional artisan mezcal market of alcoholic beverages, thus breaching the security provided for in Article 5 of our Constitution, which states that no one shall be hindered engaged in a profession , industry, trade or legal work, and 3) the destruction of a part of the biological and cultural heritage of Mexicans, violating international conventions on the subject have been signed by our country."

Is this NOM-199 a sign of the impending apocalypse for agave spirits? Will the big corporations flood the markets with komil? What's strange is the consumers are not as upset with the gradual industrialization of tequila and mezcal. It seems a new flavoured tequila (mixto and 100% agave), produced at a distillery with a diffuser, is being released every odd month. I cannot imagine all of this proposed NOM will be enacted into law. I predict that komil will be redacted. Everyone will have to respect the ever-so-often-expanded DOs, If an 100% agave spirit is produced outside the denominaciónes de origen it should be allowed to be called  destilado de agave or destilado de maguey. If an 100% agave spirit is produced inside a denominaciónes de origen without the proper certification but exported for sale... well I'm not going there. All spirits producers should be monitored and have strict testing certification - obviously costs adjusted according to production size. Maybe ease up on the alcohol proof restriction. Eliminate the mixto category - only 100% agave. Prohibit diffusers. Expand the DOs, at the very least the inclusion of other states/regions could address some concerns about monitoring, inspections and quality. There should be sizable tax benefits to producers that: 1). adopt a reduce, reuse, recycle program; 2). have a low carbon footprint; 3). only manufacture up to 200* litres per month and 4). have an active and successful program for reforestation of agave. Besides, producers only making small batches of spirits through ancestral methods should be rewarded. Producers using industrial methods (ie. diffuser) to make thousands of liters a month should be strictly monitored. If you feel compelled to sign a petition to support opposition to NOM-199 for agave distillates - there is this one created by Tequila Interchange Project.

And for whatever reason, a few individuals and a company have jumped at the attempt to trademark "komil". And then there's Carl´s Jr.'s Mezcal BBQ Thickburger. I don't have a horse in this race. Definitely not an expert. I don't make a living off of the industry. I do enjoy all agave based spirits. The history of pre-hispanic Mesoamérica fascinates me. The story of Mayahuel and Centzon Totochtin. The story on the discovery of pulque. The making of pulque (fermentation and agave). Don't even get me started on the many varieties of corn (maize) and the possibility of a corn whisky-type spirit. NOM-199 is a flimsy attempt to strong-arm the ancestral and traditional spirits producers which just so happens to include a large portion of indigenous people in Mexico's poorest rural regions. Sort of sounds like 1795 all over again...so what came first, tequila or mezcal?

* 200 litres is just a random number thrown out there. The mezcaleros producing spirits through ancestral methods would have a better idea to quantify what "small batch" means when it comes to such numbers involving monthly production

El Mezcalito, a great example of the hypocrisy in this fight. Claims to contain Agave. Yet made with Caña de azúcar (sugar-cane). And what about the brand's name?

While the government of Mexico is so worried about the use of mezcal - Carl´s Jr. nonchalantly uses it for their new Mezcal BBQ Thickburger.

Wild Agave Imports, LLC is a subsidiary of Wahaka Mezcal